After making this skirt for my friend Judy, I couldn't help but make one for myself.
It's such a simple pattern, but I really like the 70's vibe of the style, so when I found a dark blue wool remnant at Fabricana, I knew I was going to make myself a version.
Pattern is 116B from September 2012. Burda tagged it as "easy" and it definitely is, starting with the fact that it only has two pattern pieces (4 pieces to cut with the lining), front and back, both cut on the fold. There are 2 darts in the back, two in the front and an inverted pleat at CF, which is the main design detail. Simple but classic.
Back when I made a muslin for Judy's skirt, it appeared that she didn't need the front darts (it added puckering more than anything else), so I felt confident I wouldn't need them either and removed them right off the bat, using this simple tutorial.
For my version, I didn't bother making a muslin, instead I took measurements on myself and transferred them to the pattern. The pattern doesn't have a waistband, but instructions specify that the top edge should sit 3cm below the natural waist. So I took my measurement 3cm below my waist and transfered it to the top edge with an additional 1cm on each side seam for ease. I also measured around my hips and transferred that number to the pattern, with the same ease. I think I could have done without the ease as in the end it feels like the skirt sits a little lower than intended, but I'm fine with that. Another change I made was to add 5cm to the length.
I didn't have quite enough fabric to do a proper hem at the length I wanted, so instead I used twill tape that I sewed to the bottom edge of the skirt, then folded to the inside and slip stitched by hand (similar to this technique). I didn't have dark blue tape on hand, and because I wanted to get this skirt finished right away, I just went with the next available option: baby pink twill tape. It doesn't look as neat on the inside as it could have but for once I put my endless quest for perfection to the side and just went with it. I'm 100% happy that I did.
This project was all about making something fast (took me about 3 hours, cutting included) and having the instant gratification of wearing it to work the next day (which I did!). And it turns out I really love this skirt, it's everything I had pictured and I know it's already a perfect addition to my everyday wardrobe.
My only comment would be that the fabric I used might not have been totally ideal. It's a medium weight 100% wool, and althoug it's a woven, it has almost a knit-like quality to it, with a bit of stretch. It's a bit too drape-y and light, and if you look closely the pleat isn't as neat as it was on the version I made for Judy. I would definitely recommend a thicker fabric for this particular skirt, but I have to say, my version is really comfortable so I hope it holds up well with time...